Aconcagua
Join us on an expedition to the highest mountain in the Western hemisphere!
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Aconcagua is located in the central Andes of Argentina near the border with Chile. It offers an incredible climbing experience for individuals seeking the challenges of a high altitude climbing expedition in a spectacular setting.
We offer expeditions on four different routes on Aconcagua, including ascents from the Upper Vacas valley on the mountains remote North side. In the past this has proven to be a scenic and seldom traveled route. It is a high quality, non-technical, climb in a pristine environment. We also lead technical climbs on the Polish Glacier. We would be happy to talk with you about the different route options.
Our guides have many years of experience on Aconcagua. Their skill and knowledge insure a safe, successful, and fun trip. We also limit the size of our groups, and maintain a small guest to guide ratio. The itineraries and camps that we use are designed to provide the best experience on this challenging and rewarding trip!
On January 12 2007, 15 members of the Canadian Heart Association reached the summit with Alaska Mountain Guides International, and raised over $120,000 for charity. Congratulations to everyone for making it the top!
This is the second of the seven summits that AMGI has led for the CHA. In 2005 they raised $50K for charity on Kilimanjaro.
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The guides were great. They both exhibited very professional behavior and were a great source of knowledge, and on top of that they were very personable. The only criticism that I have is that they were pretty bad at playing cards :). I would not hesitate to do another expedition with them again, and I have already recommended your business to others that are thinking of doing this sort of thing.
Leonard M.
Aconcagua January 2003
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- Click here to check out our 'Aconcagua Route Map'!
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Highlights
Mendoza: Mendoza is located in Argentina on the east slope of the Andes. It is the third largest city in Argentina, in the heart of the local wine country and the climate is hot and sunny. Our trip will begin and end here.
Penitentes: We will go directly from Mendoza to this ski resort community situated at 9,000 ft. and spend our first night here at one of the local lodges. This is the starting point for our approach hike up the Vacas valley.
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Vacas Valley: A unique route on Aconcagua. It follows an isolated valley to the remote North side of the mountain. It is a beautiful route with lots of wildlife. This route was pioneered by Alaska Mountain Guide Director Sean Gaffney and we have been guiding it for many years.
Summit Day: Summit day is usually eight to ten hours, but can be as long as 12 hours. Though physically verys strenuous it is well worth it when, at the summit, climbers are rewarded with amazing 360 degree views of the Andes mountains stretching all the way to the Pacific Coast.
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- The highest point in the Western Hemisphere
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Descent & Hike Out: We hike back out the Horcones valley, which has beautiful scenery and completes a circumnavigation of the mountain. It also gives us a chance to see the Plaza de Mulas base camp on the normal route.
Side Trips: Climbs of Aconcagua can easily be combined with local rafting trips or trekking in Patagonia. We would be happy to answer any questions about options for side trips while you are in Argentina or Chile.
Itineraries: Our itineraries include ample time for weather and rest days. They are designed to provide participants with a positive and successful high altitude experience.
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The Route/Camps: Our favorite route, The Vacas, moves up the north side of the mountain and is independent from other routes on the mountain until high camp at 20,000 ft. where it rejoins the normal route for summit day. We use four camps that are well spaced at 2,000 ft intervals. This distance between camps is ideal acclimatization.
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- Moving to camp 4, Upper Vacas Route
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Difficulty: Most routes are non-technical, but involve strenuous hiking at high altitude carrying a 50 - 60 pound backpack.
Trip Length: 20 days from Mendoza to Mendoza, however most trips typically take 17 or 18 days.
Included: Transfers, hotels in Puente del Inca, mules, all meals from Mendoza to Mendoza, climbing permit, group climbing and camping equipment, and guides.
Not Included: Meals and hotels in Mendoza, airfare to/from Mendoza, bottled water, soda, and alcohol.
CONSIDERING CLIMBING ACONCAGUA?
The guides at Alaska Mountain Guides International Inc. have led more than 80 Aconcagua expeditions over the past 16 years, and would like to pass on some of what they have learned. Climbing at altitude is demanding, and the service you choose will have a large impact on your overall experience on the mountain. It can also determine how smooth things go before and after your trip. If you are not able to join us we would be happy to recommend other companies that we know operate safe, quality, trips. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions.
QUESTIONS FOR YOUR GUIDE SERVICE
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HOW MANY PEOPLE WILL BE ON YOUR TRIP?
A small group size is one of the most important variables in determining how a trip will run. A small group is safer, has a greater chance of success, and avoids conflicts that are hard to miss with larger groups. It also allows for a more flexible, personalized approach to climbing the mountain. Ask your guide service if they limit group size and what their client go guide ratio is. At Alaska Mountain Guides we generally limit trip size on Aconcagua to six guests and two guides.
3 to 1 guest/guide ratio.
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- Approach to Plaza Argentina (14,000 ft)
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WHAT IS THE RATE OF ASCENT AND THE NUMBER OF CAMPS USED?
Rate of ascent is one of the most important things to consider when climbing a big mountain. Many services try to rush people up the mountain. This frequently creates a situation where many members of the group are not acclimatized enough to enjoy themselves, or to do well on summit day. The reason most groups do not summit on Aconcagua is not because of bad weather, but simply because they move up the mountain too fast! Ask your guide service what their ascent rate is and the camp spacing and number of camps used on Aconcagua. At AMG our itineraries are designed to provide individuals with a positive high altitude experience. They include ample time for rest, weather, and acclimatization days. We normally use four camps above Base Camp, which dramatically increases the safety and success of our guests because of better acclimatization. This also makes the carries between camps less than 2000 vertical feet, another big factor in being well acclimatized!
USE OF PULSE OXIMETERS AND SATELLITE PHONES
Pulse oximeters are small, precise, medical instruments that essentially give a digital readout of how you are acclimatizing. That is, the oxygen saturation in your bloodstream. With this information we can make the best decisions on how to tailor the trip to meet your individual needs. We use them every step of the way, on every trip to altitude. In our opinion, all high altitude guides should have one to help assure your safety. We also use satellite phones on the mountain to provide the optimum ability to communicate and plan.
WHO ARE THE GUIDES?
Alaska Mountain Guides International Inc. guides are professionals. They are special individuals who have a passion for being in the mountain environment. They bring a wealth of experience from guiding throughout the world to every trip. Their skill and positive attitudes ensure our guests a great experience during their climb. All of our guides are also professional climbing instructors who genuinely enjoy sharing their knowledge. This can be an important consideration for individuals who have not spent a lot of time at altitude, and are interested in learning the safest and most efficient ways to climb a big mountain.
Vacas Route Itinerary
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DAY 1: Mendoza to Penitentes.
In the morning we will get our park service climbing permits. Then we travel by private passenger van for approximately 3 hours to the winter resort community of Penitentes where we will spend the evening. Penitentes, situated at approx. 9,000 ft., is a good elevation to begin acclimatizing. After getting situated in our rooms at the lodge we will do a check of everyone's equipment, pack clothing and gear for the next morning, and pack bags for the mules. Dinner is in the lodge.
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- Penitentes from above
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DAY 2: Penitentes to Pampa Lena.
After breakfast in the lodge, we will trek for approx. four hours up the Vacas valley to our first camp at Pampa Lena (9,200 ft.). The valley is spectacular and the hiking is in a warm, high Andean landscape.
DAY 3: Pampa Lena to Casa Piedra. Hiking time is approximately six hours to our camp at Casa Piedra (11,000 ft.). The deep valleys open up as we travel forward, and we get our first views of the mountain.
DAY 4: Casa Piedra to Base Camp.
Hiking time is approximately eight hours to our base camp (12,800 ft.). There is a lot of opportunity to see wild Guanaco, a relative of the Llama, throughout the day. We also have beautiful views of the Vacas Glacier and all of the glaciers in the upper Vacas valley.
DAY 5: Carry Equipment and Supplies to Camp 1 (14,800 ft.).
Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours round trip.
DAY 6: Move to Camp 1.
Hiking time is approximately four to six hours. Camp one has spectacular views of the upper mountain.
DAY 7: Rest / Acclimatization Day.
DAY 8: Carry Equipment and Supplies to Camp 2 (16,000 ft.).
Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours round trip.
DAY 9: Move to Camp 2.
Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours.
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DAY 10: Carry Equipment and Supplies to Camp 3 (18,200 ft.).
Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours round trip.
DAY 11: Move to Camp 3.
Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours.
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- Camp 3 sunrise from the tent
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DAY 12: Carry Equipment and Supplies to Camp 4 (20,200 ft.).
Camp four is our high camp. Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours round trip.
DAY 13: Move to High Camp.
We use a high camp called White Rocks. It is one of the best-protected high camps on the mountain. It is less crowded and more sanitary than other high camps, and its placement saves an hour of travel time on summit morning, relative to the normal route's regular high camp. This can be a big advantage on summit morning. Some groups try and camp higher on the mountain, but there are no protected spots until much further up, and it is too high to sleep well. White Rocks is an outstanding camp. Hiking time is approximately six to eight hours.
DAY 14: Summit Day!
We are up early to prepare. Summit day is usually eight to fourteen hours. It is a demanding day, but climbers are rewarded with stunning views across the Andes in all directions. Don't forget your camera!
Day 15: High Camp to Plaza Mulas.
We will descend from our high camp to Plaza Mulas, the base camp for the normal route. Mules will carry our equipment from here back to the trailhead. We will spend the evening here.
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DAY 16: Plaza Mulas to Penitentes.
We hike for approximately eight to ten hours down the Horcones valley to the trailhead. The Horcones valley is quite different from the Vacas valley that we use for our approach. It is interesting to see both sides of the mountain. By hiking back out from the mountain this way we complete a circumnavigation of Aconcagua! There is a ranger station at the trailhead where we will check out of the park, and meet our ride back to lodge in Penitentes. We plan to stay the night at the lodge in Penitentes, but it is sometimes possible to arrange for transportation back to Mendoza that same evening.
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- Mules carry the bulk of the weight to and from the mountain.
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Day 17: Penitentes to Mendoza.
After a good breakfast in the lodge we will travel by private passenger van back to Mendoza. In the evening we like to have a last dinner in one of Mendoza's many outstanding restaurants.
DAYS 18-20: Contingency Days.
These days are reserved to allow for additional weather, and rest/acclimatization days. They can be used at any point in the trip. Ample contingency days are important to accommodating changing individual and group needs.
Alaska Mountain Guides International itineraries are intended to provide individuals with a positive high altitude experience. They include ample time for weather and rest days, and our camps are spaced at optimum intervals for acclimatization.
**This itinerary is intended as a general guideline. It can change at any time due to events or conditions that are beyond our control.
DATES/PRICES: Please see our schedule for current dates and prices information.
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- 3 AM, summit morning (20,000 ft)
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